Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Tuesday May 12....drifting along, singing a song, all by myself.....

Light winds, like teenage love, are fickle. They go, they stop, they blow this way, they blow that way, and then they don't blow at all. The sails go fwack fwack fwack. And Cress goes F...F...F.... And every few hours a squall drifts by, the winds go crazy for an hour, die completely, and then gradually come back. Here, the winds suck, not blow. Just like teenage love. Its very trying man. But fickle or otherwise, I am never-the-less making sure, but slow progress.

I have six days before I am meeting my party in Langkawi on May 19. I have 628 miles to go as of now (Tuesday morning), of which at least half of that will be against a .5 knot current. I need to cover at least 100 miles a day, if I am going to be there the day they arrive. I have about 2/3 of my fuel left. And, the winds are projected to remain light (and fickle). I can make it, but I have had to resign myself to the fact I will need to just slow down and accept it will take all six days to arrive unless there is a lot more wind than forecast.

So I will just kind of nurse her along, trying to be patient. If I can keep her up to 4.10 sog under sail, I just sail, if I can't, I motor sail. Like teenage love, it doesn't seem to get you anywhere, but eventually something becomes of it.

(no subject)

Last night a front moved in and she started to blow about 20 knots. One by one, the stars all went out and it got pretty dark. Every hour or two an embedded storm system came through with driving torrential rains and gusts to 30 knots. I spent the whole night with a double reefed main and the genoa unfurled between squalls, trying to get her furled before the winds started to huff and puff. Twice I got caught napping, being waken by the boat taking off like a wild horse with the radar alarm going bleep, bleep, bleep. The last time, I got an override on the retrieve line winch and had to sweat it in by hand, with that thunderous sound of a #1 genoa flogging in 30 knots. Not too swift Poindexter. After that I decided the genoa would stay furled till dawn, and I finally got some sleep.

I spend more time fiddling with the electronics on board than I do sailing the boat. This morning the Automatic Identification System is acting up. Yesterday it was the computer/modem/email system. But I must say, the new TMQ autopilot is doing yeoman's service. Touch wood. I punch in a course, she takes a couple of minutes to learn how to steer it with the least movement of the helm, and then she quietly does her work. Impressive. Without her, it would be tough. The Hydrovane steering is not working - I am certain the shaft is bent again. I emailed the manufacturer last week, and have not heard back.

Monday, May 11, 2009

Day 13 and we are sailing again

Position N00 37 E 091 53 Course 000 SOG 4.0

At the risk of jinxing the venture, after 40 hours of motoring, I can again hear the happy gurgle of water along the hull passing the nav station where I sit to write this. Yes folks, we are sailing and the iron genoa has been stowed.

Today,the 11th of May, we crossed the equator, northbound. And, even better news,
the wind has come in, albeit gently at less than 8 knots from the WSW. This is the edge of the Indian Ocean monsoon I had been looking for as a signal I am through the ITCZ and 'out the other side' ya hoo! I don't expect the monsoon to be as reliable or as strong as the SE trade winds, but they do offer the hope of wind and a downwind sail the last 700 miles or so to Langkawai.

Today is laundry and cleaning day. I washed all 13 days worth of laundry - two pairs of shorts and a hat. The hat was by far the worst because I wear it. The shorts I don't bother with much. I also cleaned out the fridge bottom. This is especially important as it contains all my open food, and when not normally refrigerated it gets, well, nasty.

Its hot out here folks, damn hot!

And as I write this, the wind is dying.... whimper... whimper.....

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Droning along....

We are now just 4 hours short of motoring for a full 24 hours and no wind in sight. With no wind, the fluffy white clouds rise straight up from the glassy surface of the aquamarine water. Its rather fun, watching them grow and morph. Like a kid, I find myself laughing at the caricatures of people I know showing up in their profiles. It's so quiet, it would be perfect water skiing weather if I could get going fast enough under power! It would be fun too, skiing in and around the great big oily swells coming up from the SE. In the quiet, even the birds are resting - too much work to fly without the wind to give them lift on the waves.

And I am resting too. There is nothing much for me to do. With no wind, there isn't much to look at other than the clouds. The weather is completely settled, not even much squall activity about, certainly nothing I have to dodge. And, as for the boat, she is looking after herself. She steers herself. The boat's diesel is happy to run hour after hour after hour. The boat doesn't wake me up for any sail changes. The boat even pretty much navigates herself with GPS. Yup, its just about perfect. I even have the fridge running with all this excess electricity lying about, so I have cold, very, very cold beer. Now all I need is to find a way to have the boat cook and clean up after me, then I would be in heaven.

Really, the only thing I have to do is worry about having enough fuel. Which I don't, of course. I have enough fuel to motor about another 400 miles, and its still almost 800 miles to port. But I can't imagine not having any wind between here and Langkawi. The wind will pick up. Patience has never been a strong suite of mine. In the mean time I guess I'll just have to lie down some more. Saving my energy you see.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Post or no post, I must blog!

Ah me, it was a tough day yesterday. A bunch of things went wrong.

No email - something is wrong, either on board with my equipment, or with the one station I can reach. It seems not to be answering my calls. I don't know which it is, but I have decided I will write my blog and send it whenever I can.

No cruisers net - haven't been able to contact th SE Asia Net.

My propane solenoid went south in a puff of smoke yesterday noon. No spare on board and no gas plumbing supplies, so I drilled a hole through the gate in the burned out solenoid and reinstalled it. This will allow gas to the stove, but it means a tedious trip to the aft propane locker to turn the gas on and off.

The push switch in the aft head shower sump died. I ended bailing out the sump by hand, cursing. No more showers there until I fix that puppy. Oh well.

And of course, the wind has retreated. For the last 24 hours or so I have been reduced to sailing on whatever zephyrs come my way. When I do get moving air, it is either a trade wind residual or squall blast. The wind, when comes, and in all velocities, from all directions on the eastern half of the compass, from N, NE, E SE, S. This is what it is like in the twilight zone, errr, the Intertropical Convergence Zone, out of the tradewinds. In the last 24 hours, I have done more sail handling than since I left on this passage, but made less than a 100 miles in the last 24 hours. But, I have to remind myself, I am still sailing, not motoring, and 100 miles a day was my average in the last boat! So stop whining already!

Its all about expectations, isn't it? If I shift what I expect, I shift my context. If I shift my context, then I shift how I feel about it. Context is king, as my coach colleague Bill is fond of saying (How, by the way, are you Bill?)

Speaking of context, you know, its so damn hot, I am going to sneak on the fridge when nobody's looking and cool down a few of those Bali Beers, and damn the electricity dicks!

Thursday, May 7, 2009

(no subject)

The most exciting thing that has happened to me in the last 24 hours, is sleeping in.
This morning, the sun was up when I came to in the cockpit. I could hardly believe it. When I opened my eyes, looked up, and felt my body, I thought I must be in heaven, because it was the best I have felt in days. Sleep is under rated!

I am sailing north west now, away from the heart of the trade winds, and I hate to say it, toward the DOLDRUMS! You know the place. The place of no wind, thunderstorms and sweating crew under the merciless tropical sun. And things are already starting to get hotter as the winds back off to about 10 knots. The boat is slowing, and the cabin is a furnace during the heat of the day without the trade winds blowing though it. It could be a long way to the other side of the DOLDRUMS, where I expect to pick up the Westerly monsoons of the Indian Ocean. It could be 500 miles, it could be 200 miles, or I could get lucky and find the DOLDRUMS going south, when I am going north and maybe I'll hardly ever be out of wind. The suspense is killing me, and I am totally obsessing about it. Truth be told, I am more afraid of two or three or four days sitting around becalmed than I am of the same number of days of stormy weather. Sitting around waiting for wind is agony for me. The only other thing that bothers me more is the thought of burning $400 worth of diesel to motor through it - I am such a tight wad!~

Oh well get over it. I guess, I'll go on deck and chase the birds off the solar panels, bloody free loaders. Its not the free ride that bothers, its the deposits that drive me crazy! On deck, bird poop is like greased lightening. Between that and the carcasses of flying fish I have to watch where I put my feet down. I guess I could get out the scrub brush....... naw... too damn hot.

Position as of 1545 local time S 05 degrees, 36 mins. E 095 degrees, 39 mins. About 1200 miles done, about 1200 miles more to go!

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

One Week at Noon Today

Counting myself blessed this morning. It is yet another beautiful, sunny day, sparkling waters and a following tradewind breeze of about 15 knots. Everything on the boat is working well enough. I managed to uncover my modem problem (fingers crossed, seems it needs its own independent power supply in addition to the feed it gets from the radio) and I slept well and deeply a couple of shifts last night. We are making about 8 knots through the water, against a .5 to 1 knot counter current. At this speed the boat bounces around a bit, but at least for sailing near dead down wind she is level and rolling only a little.

Today marks the end of my first week. I am feeling very at home, yet aware that my comfort and ease can quickly disappear with a change in the wind, an equipment failure or even a minor accident. When things go wrong on a boat, it usually happens very quickly, and often without much warning. So for now, I am vigilant, but also enjoying myself with reading, writing and fiddling with the boat. Enjoying it while it lasts.

What does with oneself 24 hours a day at sea on a solo passage? Well, a routine day shapes up something like this, although from my more general experience sailing, non-routine days can come back to back or weeks apart. Heavy weather, break-downs or whatever just totally hijack the day, but most days are fairly routine.

My day is tracked noon to noon, I guess as a reflection of the fact that this is the time of day of the traditional noon site, anchoring each day's celestial navigation. Thank goodness those days are gone with GPS So at noon I sit down here at the nav station, open the electronic charting and calculate the days run from the previous days noon site. Then I LOG the GPS position in the paper log so if I am struck by lightening and loose all these delicate electronics, I still have something to work with for finding my way ashore. But I do have no less than four GPS units on board. Two plug into the computer, one as a stand alone unit and the second built into the AIS (Automatic Identification System). A third is the nav station unit powered by the ships batteries and the fourth is a battery powered unit stowed in the abandon ship bag.

After that I usually make my biggest, and sometimes only meal, of the day. Its easiest to cook midday when it is daylight, but you know, when its just me, its too simple, so simple its a little embarrassing. Yesterday it was instant mashed potatoes, a gravy mix and a can of pre-cooked roast beef, for example. Next to that, the boxed wine is good. Then comes, of course, an afternoon nap, followed by ham radio work - usually a radio check in to a cruiser net, then a position update and another log entry. At dusk I do another email pickup which includes my scheduled weather grib files (wind and wave predictions) storm warnings and other advisories. Before dark, I go around the boat on deck checking the rigging, sails for chafe or damage, toss the flying fish back overboard (I hate stepping on them in my bare feet in the night) and just get things ready for 12 hours of sailing in the dark. I usually reduce sail a bit, so if a squall wakes me up, its not quite such a shit fight to get the boat back under control.

I usually sit on deck with a scotch and some tunes, play my drum, or just contemplate the day as the sun goes down. Best part of the day. Before it gets dark, I make up the cockpit for sleeping. Sometimes I'll read, do emails, it depends on my sleep quotient. Usually, I'll start the night routine with going to sleep until the boat wakes me up - not usually more than an hour or two. Then I have to do something - steer around a fish boat, change sails, close up the boat against the rain, get something to eat, reset sails and so on. Its amazing how just keeping the boat moving in the right direction with the right amount of sails takes more or less hourly attention, while sleeping around the events. It takes 10 hours to get 6 hours sleep. Before sunrise, I am usually so stiff from sleeping on the cockpit bench, I am waiting for the sun to rise so I can make my first cup of coffee to greet the day with. Nothing like it.

Morning, is kind of ridiculous, because its my most ambitious part of the day. I put on a bunch of sail if I can and tune the boat up for speed, fix anything broken from the night, and do another round of weather emails and log entry and navigation. If I am expecting compny, I'll have a salt water bucket shower on the aft deck. Soon its noon.

Inter dispersed with this at any time of the day and night, I will just plunk myself down - could be the bow, the aft deck, the cockpit, even a little way up the mast and I will just enjoy watching her sail through the waves. There is nothing quite like it. A sail boat is a simple machine, but it harness such power from the wind, no inboard motor would ever generate such energy, or do so with such finesse, balance and modesty. No smoke, no noise, no fuel to consume. Simple raw wind power. Leaving her to the hand of the windvane steering, I watch this harmony of design, materials and labour move so elegantly amongst the great rollers out here, I cannot help to feel in flow by association. As a machine, the boat is an extension of my knowledge and labours, and yet as my master out here, it commands my diligence and respect. This is such a big boat, I really need to stay ahead of her. I am merely the rider on the elephant! Master, yet mastered. Humbling, yet satisfying.

Flow is our ultimate reward for engaging the struggle and learning from the experience. When we grapple with forces bigger than us and engage them with earnest intent, we gain a modicum of mastery. Gradually, as we gather our experiences and forge our skills, we grow the depth of our competence and expand the challenge, never to achieve absolute mastery, but mastery of a sort none-the-less. By engaging the elephant,we discover our unique gifts, and through the cultivation of our gifts, build lives of passion. No challenge, no learning. No learning, no mastery. No mastery, no passion. No passion, no joy.
Cresswell