Wednesday, December 24, 2014

Happy Christmas to all!

Hi there- well it certainly is a Happy Christmas for us! We arrived in Antigua on Dec 20th after 21 days at sea. Fairly good passage, but we struggled with having enough wind even though we were in the tradewind belt.

The 'jock crew' - (4 strapping guys plus Irena) was great - but we managed to make it through ALL of our provisions. We had challenges as well with a fresh water leak and a propane leak, so we were rationing pretty carefully near the end of the passage. We actually ran out of propane 3 days before we arrived in Antigua, but had managed to cook up all the food before hand and use the microwave to heat things up.

Very grateful that Cress held on the that old microwave, that I was ready to toss out before we left Turkey!!! That saved the day.

It is now Christmas Eve and we have a new crew - dear friends AL and Leona from Vancouver and Cress's daughter Breanna - so we are cooking a Polish Christmas Eve meal for tonight and have a turkey thawing for Christmas day. We will be at anchor in a beautiful bay in Antigua before shoving off for Guadeloupe on Boxing day.

Loving the Caribbean people, weather and turquoise water, lots of snorkeling and swimming to be done over the next few weeks as we make our way down the chain of islands to Grenada.

Hope to send photos soon - but internet continues to be a huge challenge.

Merry Christmas to all from the crew of Conversations.

Irena and Cress


Saturday, November 29, 2014

Down Wind Sailing?

Well our bags are packed, we're ready to go....
Winds from the north, 20 to 15 knots..... could it be? Downwind sailing at last is here for us?
Been in the Canaries this last week preparing for our passage to the Caribbean. New crew onboard - Lyle, Mitchel and Willy. The five of us set sail this morning in a few hours. We expect to be less than 3 weeks on passage to Antigua. We will be better blog keepers we promise with Canary pictures and the story when we arrive there just before Christmas. Cress

Friday, November 14, 2014

Outta here!

 Gibraltar to Morocco!

Well my goodness- it took A LOT of upwind sailing - but we are finally out of the Med - through the Straights of Gibraltar and on the African continent - in Morocco at last! Once again though, we are waiting out some rainy weather and high contrary winds in Tangier (not exactly yacht friendly!!) before hopping down the coast.

We (the girls - now including my niece Anastasia) did manage to get off the boat for a road trip yesterday while Cress minded the boat - mainly because we are the 5th boat rafted up to a mangy dock behind an out of service ferry! Also, Cress had one of those nasty jobs to do yesterday fixing the head pump - guess that's the price for having the harem crew doting on him ;-).



In any case, we are ready to set sail as soon as possible - maybe tonight or early morning and make time down the coast.We opted to skip Casablanca when we heard the population is 4 million - after being in Tnagier a mere 1 million and being constantly accosted in the medina (not a pleasant experience at all) - but still would really like to see Marrakesh and the desert and the wild, wild, west coast of Morocco.





Otherwise, all well on board!

These photos are from the blue town we visited called Chefchaouen - on the mountains about 2 hours east of Tangier.

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Safe in Gibraltar!

Update.
Fabulous sail today. Having beat our brains our short tacking the coast of Spain day and night,against 20 and 30 knot headwinds, (under power and sail), this morning we hit the far western end of the Med and caught a break with a long single tack beat down to the rock! Gibraltar! We did it Turkey to Gibraltar. We left Turkey, October 4th, arrived here November 8th. One heck of a lot of upwind sailing!
Tied to seagull-shit festooned dock for tonight, too tired to care or go ashore! 
Details to follow.

C

The Harem Crew rocks


Ahem…..
…….

…Ahhhemm! 
Which one is the squash? (hint - none of them, its a carved Halloween melon
Ask Barb)
.........
Testing…testing one, two, three….. four.
Hmmm, well it still seems to work….
……
Well, Hello!
Some of you may have been wondering where is Cress's voice in all of this on the blog. Where is the Captain!?
Indeed, maybe you haven't noticed, and that's okay, but I certainly have been wondering!
You see, I am the lone man on a boat load of four. All three of our crew are, shall we say, 'mature' women, each quite practiced in being in command all on their own. And taken together on a boat? Well, they practically don't even need a captain!

Ellen, Barb, Irena, left to right
They are impressive. They show up for watch at every ungodly hour and in every kind of weather, on time and in good spirits, dressed sensibly no less. Like a trio of Broncos they hang on and steer without complaint while the salt water runs down the back of their jackets and the boat bounces through the short Mediterranean chop. They take sailing orders without complaint or question, and learn quickly which of the endless ropes to cleat, release, pull, wrap, coil, etc… And -- this is what separates them from the more macho crew we have had the pleasure of - they also clean, tidy and organize below until the boat is in Bristol shape. And each meal from their galley is a feast fit for any time or place. They plan and shop up all the food, organize it in our fridge and freezer, and serve it up each meal with wine and we practically eat off white table cloths, almost.

And they get along. They stand watch together, cook together, clean together, do their toe nails together, talk, talk, talk, even sleep together (well not in that way of course, but you know how much more comfortable women are bunking in together). They flow. Doubtless you have pondered how seamlessly a school of fish cohere and move as a singularity, or the wondered at the way a flock of birds fly together, as if a single intelligence. And so we have it on Conversations. I suppose it helps that Irena and Barb are sisters, and that Ellen and Barb go way, way back, and that all three then share a common life history of Winnipeg winters and Whiteshell Lake cottage summers.  They practically finish one another's sentences! And, they are, perhaps, the best crew I have ever had!
Can one man manage?
Wuat's a guy to do?


So boys, a new standard has been set. Lyle, Mitch, Willie, the bar is high. The challenge formidable. When we go from an all-woman crew to an all-male crew to sail across the Atlantic in December from the Canaries

Irena will be there to witness our glory or our ignominy. Let’s show them how men!

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Malta



We have been in Malta since Sunday afternoon - loving it here! Earthy, gritty (but in a charming way), rich with so much history. We will be here until Friday/Saturday waiting out high winds and stormy weather coming from the NW. Once it has passed we will make a dash for Sardinia.


The following was written by Ellen during our passage and approach to Malta......

Sunday Oct 19th 12:00  We are about 25 nautical miles out of Malta.  We are passing through the gauntlet of about 18 ships of all sizes anchored in the open sea waiting for their turn to enter Malta.  This is day 5 of our passage to Malta.  We have been fighting a strong head wind from the west for 3 and a half of the 5 days.  For most of the time our sailboat has been heeled {tilted to one side}.  So life has been interesting with regard to eating, sleeping, cooking and going to the head.  The stove "floats" so we can always cook.


We take turns doing night watches, Cress and  I (Ellen) from 9pm to 2am then Irena and Barb till 7am.   Barb and I have moved into to the salon to sleep.   The v berth {in bow} is too rough for sleeping and also we have a leak coming from the forward hatch from the spray of salt water coming over the bow.  The weather has been great but the nights and star gazing have been outstanding.  Barb has an app on her iPhone to help us figure out some of the constellations.  There is always the milky way and the big dipper no matter where you are the world.  Last night Cress put out a lawn chair on the aft deck so we could watch the meteor shower show.  I relaxed and had my feet up in the lawn chair gazing the sky. 

We are looking forward to about 3 or 4 days in and around Malta.  Have you noticed that I have been using sailing terms?  Yes!!  My education of the language of Sailing is expanding.  It started before I stepped onto the gangplank onto the sailboat.  O silly me, it's not a pirate ship.  I was thinking of the grandkids. The parisole is the correct name for the gangway.  Cress and Irena have been so patient in showing us the ropes and there are a lot of ropes on board but they are not called ropes but rather "lines". Sometimes they look into our eyes to see if we understand but they see only the "deer in the head lights" blank stare.   We have 3 sails; the Mainsail, the Genoa and the Staysail, all of  which in turn have there own lines.  The line to pull up the Mainsail  is called the halyard.   Good thing I knew where port and starboard are MOST of the time. 


As I walk around the deck of the boat I hold onto a lifeline which encirles the boat. The most important rule? "Do not fall off the boat, DO NOT FALL OFF THE BOAT!!!  From reefs, boom ,vang ,windvane, backstay, topping lift, dodger, and list goes on, good thing there is no written test.  When I am at the helm, Cress asks me to sail high (he does not mean on drugs!) so I have a 50/50 chance of getting it right.  I have warded off Alzheimer's for at least a few more years with all this new knowledge.  As we zig and zag (Opps I mean tack) across the Med, I am looking forward to every new moment.  Land ! I see LAND!!!  Malta here we come.

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Onward - to Malta and Beyond!



After 11 days out we are just about to begin our first overnight passage - from Crete to Malta. The past 10 days have been very busy getting ourselves organized, getting everyone used to the routine, provisioning and squeezing in a bit of sight seeing in both Rhodes and Crete. Barb and Ellen got a real taste of all different points of sail, especially with the 5 days of upwind tacking in 25-35 knots of wind. Now that was work! But now even Ellen's stomach has adjusted and all of us feel quite ready to move on.







The high winds have subsided and it looks as though we will be in for a pleasant, albeit slow passage to Malta. This will be a first for Ellen and Barb - sailing all night long, taking turns on watch and trying to sleep while underway. They are doing great though - our meals have been fantastic and all photos are courtesy of these 2 fine women. It is a real pleasure having them on board. And Cress gets lots of 'well done!' looks when everyone sees his all female crew! He just keeps smiling and letting them wonder how in the heck he managed it!




We are now tied up to the seawall in Chania in Crete, loading up with water and fuel and as soon as we pick up our laundry and a few more fresh veggies, we will be outta here.This 400 NM passage should take about 3-4 days depending of course on WIND :-).




By the way, I am truly having a hard time being without a phone!! No texting, no facetime, no instant emails.... but am slowly adjusting (NOT!). But mostly I am missing contact with Jenn and Krissy. Cress has managed to get a wireless working on the boat now, so we can all connect whenever we get a data cardin each country - so that will help!

Out for now,
Irena






Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Farewell to Turkey



 I guess I don't really believe it just yet! We have actually left Turkey and have landed in Greece - Rhodes Island is our first stop on the long journey 'home'. It feels just like any other weekend so far, it is Sunday and my mind is still filled with work related 'stuff' and I find it strange that I don't have a phone that I am checking every 2 minutes, or a computer with skype that is making noise - calling me to respond. I am still feeling the pressure though - I imagine that will take a little longer to let go of! Sort of restless and uncomfortable- like I am between worlds. Not quite left the work world and not quite arrived in the cruising world.

 But the adventure of sailing back to Canada is slowly going to take shape.  We have an excellent trip planned with many family and friends joining us along the way. First up is my sister Barb and a friend from 'The lake' - Ellen - who will be with us until mid-November - all the way out of the Med to Morocco. So we are starting off slowly, cleaning, provisioning and just getting ourselves into the sailing frame of mind. Cress has been here for the past 2 weeks already getting Conversations' prepared, so much has already been done.
 In many respects I feel that I am already 'home' - just being on the boat. Cress and I have all the comforts we need and we love being in nature and being self-sufficient and having the freedom to 'boldly go' where ever we want to go! The route we have chosen takes us from Turkey to Greece, then Malta, Sicily, Sardinia, Balearics, Gibraltar, Spain, Morocco, Canary Islands, Caribbean, ABC (Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao) Islands, San Blas Islands, Panama Canal, Galapagos, Hawaii and finally Vancouver. We expect to get to Vancouver sometime in June - almost exactly 10 years after we left there in 2005.

But that is just the plan! Who knows what will happen along the way! We try not to get too attached to 'plans' - they have a way of changing on you when you least expect it. And that's ok - we will be open to anything that comes our way. The one thing Cress and I do well together is this. We support each other, we allow one another to do what we are good at, we respect each others' talents and limitations and we both get enjoyment from sharing our experience with our friends and family.  This is what we have, this is who we are - it is our gift and we intend to keep sharing it as long as we possibly can!



Out for now
Irena

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

How did five months go by so fast?


Jackson Hole, China
Four days from now, I will pack up my belongings in this wee house in China, and climb into the car for the 2 hour drive to the Beijing airport to the south. I will miss this place deeply. Since April, night after night, I have pleasured in the sound of crickets outside my bedroom window, the sweet smells of mountain air brushing the fragrance of trees and flowers into my sleep. Morning after morning, I have had my coffee at this desk, watching the sun come up very early over the trees and mountains, contemplating the day’s work. And tonight, I am typing nearly my last words at this window’s ledge.
Art Creation Workshop
In Custody, the question is who?!

I know these last months will be remembered as amongst my best days ever. It has been a time of contrasts – unbelievable frustration with things not being as I expect them to be; ecstasy of being in the flow of what I do best, and most of all, being in love and connection with so many people all at once. For surely I do love them all – the staff of the House of I, with whom I have been teaching, learning and sharing almost all my waking moments. Equally, I have had the joy of connecting and learning from the other
Play Nice!
leaders, Lyle especially for his gift of encouraging me back into making music with others.
Hmmmmm they feed us well
The Interpretors
And it has been hard. I have been separated from Irena who all this time has been on her own journey, working in Istanbul. Daily Skype has made it survivable. It has allowed us to connect our two
separate lives, despite the great distance in geography and circumstance between us.
What have I been doing here? I was invited here as a ‘leader’, a teacher really, to help launch a new
personal development business in the luxury residential
community nestled at the foot of
a mountain across the valley from the Great Wall of China, visible from here on a rare clear day. Named Jackson Hole after its USA counterpart, it’s a bizarre blend of east and west, of modern western mountain villas, and ancient Chinese laborers driving soot belching three wheeled trucks down the streets day and night; of wealthy Chinese business owners, and peasant farmers.
Rayne and Shelly Momma
 Fun bunch!un bunch of girls!
In my work, I have had a chance to polish my ideas and enjoy working with passionate talented people. I have had the gratification of people’s excitement hearing some of my ideas, knowing I am making a difference for them. The 7Cs have found especially fertile ground here (excerpt from a workshop description):
“In China, the matter of “Courage” is a core. The modern people of China have ever increasing access to the freedoms and opportunities of the global way of living, but their up-bringing, culture and experience has not prepared them to take full advantage of this opportunity. There is much to benefit from learning to be more courageous. But how?
How can I overcome my cultural conditioning and be free to explore and express my true self?
Where do I find the courage to live the life I want to live, not the life I have been condition I should live.
In short, how do I find my way to more courage and happiness?”

The farm and  my summer steed
The wall around our garden....
Good questions for all of us. I have learned here, in turn. My new Chinese friends have shown how unequivocal commitment can live on even in the face of the storms of difference that blow here from time to time. Oddly, I know a different meaning of grace, and am just beginning to see the shape of inscrutability, yet still far from understanding it. I am fulfilled from making a contribution and I am honoured by their willingness to so love this barbarian in their midst.


Much to learn and do here yet.
To my friends of Jackson Hole – Thank yo.
Adieu dear ones


Thursday, May 22, 2014

THE HOUSE OF "I"
A new frontier. Since late April, I have been in Jackson Hole, China! Yes, the Chinese penchant for copying lives on. Its 100 Km north of Beijing and the Great Wall, in the mountains.  But wait. Something special is happening here. "The House of I". Yes, I know, something is lost in the translation, but to the Chinese it poses a chance to 'be' in the unaccustomed place of 'I" that we take so much for granted.
This a bold venture to bring personal development learning to north China. It is a startup, a dream coming into reality. Its chaos and it is taking shape. Last month and this, I have been working with a team of 5 other leaders, mostly from Canada, workshoping workshops - seeing what and how to offer personal development learning to the Chinese. Very fun, more to come!
C

Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Day 12 to 15 - The Artful Dodger Project
Update February 13th; put the last of the glass cloth in epoxy on the outside yesterday, and spent the rest of the day sanding, sanding, sanding. Next is a test fit on the boat (pictured) then lay up the inside in epoxy.
Head home to Istanbul tomorrow to so some real work! (What a relief!)



Sunday, February 9, 2014

February 2014 - The Artful Dodger



This is not a project for the meek of heart, I must warn you. It’s a project for real men, a project for men with hearts of steel and nerves of brass, a project only the most fool hardy would attempt.
Unfortunately, there is only me around, so I will just fake it.
The project is a “hard dodger”. No, it’s not what some of you might be thinking. It’s not a lover climbing out the second floor window as the husband pulls in the driveway. Nor is it, as my mother put to words – “The Artful Dodger”, though I hope when it is finished others will think it might be something of a work of art.
To us, a hard dodger is something to shelter us from the seas and allow us to look ahead at the same time so as avoid running into things. In landlubber terms, it is a windshield with a roof. It replaces the canvas dodger/windshield which has served us well enough, but died a natural death of sun damage. It was a choice to sew a new one or build a hard dodger to replace it.  With the 10,000 ocean miles between us and Vancouver in mind, I have been moved to tackle this job it at last.

It is now the morning of Day Eleven. It is Sunday. My back needs a break and so do I. My new Turkish friend, Omar, who has been sanding and refinishing the galley all the past week, is off for the weekend with his wife and cousin, so I don’t need to pretend to keep up with him (he is 35, focused and meticulous) nor do I need to keep moving to stay warm.

Getting started
The challenges to building a dodger in Turkey are many. Where to buy materials and pay a fair price for them, how to work on your boat in the water without the yard cops shutting you down for getting sawdust in the water, fending of the opportunistic yard Turks (the first one quoting me 4,000 Euros just to fiberglass and paint the dodger after I assembled the foam base), and finally, how to work in the winter Mediterranean weather, must all be negotiated.  And oh yes, the design. The Dodger is the highest point on the boat deck line so it really must be right to not look like a dog house.
Last summer and fall, in the warmth of our apartments in Singapore and then Istanbul, I fiddled with paper and pencil, scale and eraser until I had something of a design I might build with limited tools and access to technology. This meant flat windows so I didn’t have to find and pay to bend Plexiglas. It meant foam/fibreglass construction because it is easy to shape, light, and absolutely weather resistant.  And it meant something I could build with materials freely available in Turkey. As a model, I had the example of cruiser friends who build a beautiful, complexly curved flowing example of a dodger that looked like a jet cockpit on their sleek boat. Beautiful, but he spent 6 months and many buckos to do it. No, my dodger needed to be a lot simpler if I was going to build it in a few weeks in Turkey with no heated shop or fancy tools.

I had time in Canada at Christmas to finally take the plunge. A few days before Christmas, Dad and I drove to Toronto to buy four sheets of 1 inch Comex PVC linked foam, together with a bucket of filler and bottle of polyester glue. Four hundred dollars later, we headed home with me wondering, “What have I done?”
My nephew Cresswell Adam had a small Canadian Tire table saw in a box he had never opened which he happily lent me. In four or five hours, my Dad and I had pretty much reduced those flowing sheets of PVC foam to strips of oddly angled pieces and a pile of sawdust. Would these pieces eventually fit together as a dodger in faraway Turkey? And how would I get them there especially with a roof blank that needed to be six feet long and 3 feet wide. With my heart in my mouth, I ripped up the roof blank into 22 inch wide by 40 inch long sheets. “Hope this stuff glues back together”, I thought as the table saw blew sticky bits of PVC sawdust at me. I taped it all together in an imitation of what I thought would qualify as over   Viola! Would it be lost by the airlines? Crushed by baggage handlers? Forgotten on the baggage conveyer belt? (Not likely!) As it turned out, after three flights, Toronto – Winnipeg, Winnipeg – Istanbul, Istanbul – Marmaris, I finally humped it down the dock to the boat, a bit battered and bruised, but nothing a little epoxy filler wouldn’t correct. The game was on.
sized bag with the airlines and wrapped it in cardboard labelled, “Scott Paper Towels”.

I should add that the day before heading for Mamaris with my foam prize, I went hunting for fiberglass in the Uskadar neighbourhood of Istanbul. I met a lot of shop owners before I finally found someone who could both speak English and knew where fibreglass cloth could be had. And there it was down an alley, a dark door and small smoke filled office in the corner of his small warehouse. The office windows you could barely see through, so tarred with cigarette smoke. Once an economist, the proprietor now ran this dusty shop. We had a cup of tea and discussed the world and he sent me on my way with about twice as much fiberglass cloth as I needed.

Day One:
Marmais, Yacht Marina

 I rented a scouter and headed to town from the Marina to hunt for plywood. I had no idea how to get it to the boat yard. In the industrial section of town, I enrolled the help of another young Turk who spoke enough English to translate my plywood needs in the shop next door. By enormous coincidence, their delivery truck was being loaded with sheets of plywood for another customer in the Marina! I chased the truck back out to the marina on the scouter and strong Turk helped me drag my prize 250 m down the dock to the boat. We were in business – the 15mm X 220mm X 170mm ply was beautiful. That afternoon, with the prize laid on the dock I laid out the lines of the plywood frames. The frames would stand in the cockpit coaming as a male mold to which I would fasten the foam strips. It took me over an hour to figure how to nest the four frames on a single sheet of plywood. In the end I had so many lines on the plywood, ‘a jigsaw gone bad’ twice followed the wrong line and cut a frame in half. Fortunately, I had my polyester glue, drywall screws, and enough scrap to splint them back together. Sigh.
Just as I had the last piece of the plywood sawn, along came the dock police who very politely said “Stop”. Now you have to know, that I am the last boat at the very end of 250 m of dock, it is the middle of winter and there is not another soul on the dock. I am certainly not disturbing anyone.
 “You can’t work on the dock because you might get sawdust in the water”, he said.
I said “Huh?”
He said, “Yes there is a 30,000 TL fine for getting sawdust in the water.”
I said “Huh!”
Given that were surrounded by mountains of natural lush forest that every day flushes whole trees into the Mediterranean Sea, should I be surprised there was a 30,000 TL fine for getting sawdust in the water? Of course it didn’t make sense, but that is pretty normal for Turkey. So I moved my whole operation onboard with his agreement it was okay if I did all my sawing and sanding below decks! I should have told him I faced a pretty hefty fine of another sort with Irena for filling the boat with saw dust, but I didn’t have many options.

Day Two through Seven:
The thing about building something on a boat, is that it has few flat surfaces and fewer right angles. I made many, many trips below to cut and recut each piece until it fit. My poor paper plans showed me the way as far as a building strategy, but they were no use for helping shape the lines. As you can see from the picture at the top, I started by creating level and square surfaces with the sawn plywood frames, then continued to cut them, cut them and cut them until the shaped that looked right emerged. Then one stick at a time, I started to fit the foam to the outside of the frame. And that is pretty much what I did for six days until it looked like this. By this time, I had all the foam bits fastened to the frame, and I had the roof on temporarily. And then I made a booboo that resulted in another visit from the yard cops.
Of course, by the 5th or 6th day, I had become increasing lax about going below for each cut. Concealed by a big blue tarp draped over the boat and by my distant location at the end of the dock, I had sheepishly cut away with my jig saw in the cockpit without sanction. I know. I have no end of guilt about not doing what I agreed to do, but I was very careful to keep the sawdust on board, which, after seven days of cutting, cutting, cutting, was ankle deep. Then faced with cutting the roof to fit with a handsaw, in a reckless moment of defiance and hubris, I raised my power hand planner. It shrieked in my ears and sawdust flew, but it I was like a man liberated from prison, as the inches ripped off the roof as I brought it to shape. And of course, when I paused for a breath, covered head to toe this time with sticky foam bits of sawdust, on the dock I could see the a pair of legs and a radio, moving impatiently back and forth. The cops were back.
With the foam evidence resisting every attempt at being brushed aside, I made my way innocently to the dock to see my old friend Mustafa there with a frown. Mustafa is the yard boss cop. He and I had become acquainted when he oversaw some repairs to our topsides when the boat was damaged last winter by poor marina management. “Sir, are you the owner of this boat?” he said as I walked down the gangway to the dock, “Or are you a paid hand?”
“Mustafa, its me, Cress!”, I said smiling broadly.
“I don’t recognize you, who are you and what are you doing?”
Then I realized, for the white bits of sawdust and my hat, he really doesn’t recognize me. With a flourish I took off my hat and was glad to see a smile appear on his face. But he was adamant. No working on the boat while it is in the water! So he said I could take the dodger ashore and work on it in the yard, even though my boat was technically in the water. Sigh. You see, technically, if your boat is in the water, you have to pay to rent space ashore to work on stuff. Fortunately, anticipating just such an eventuality, Eddie, my happy hour boat owner friend with whom I had taken to spending a few hours of boat tales each evening in the bar and the owner of a 24 meter long “Spray” replica (Joshua Slocum’s boat, in which he became the first man to sail alone around the world), said I could work under his boat in the yard and use his power! And so it has come to pass. And for now, no body has come along to challenge me for working under somebody else’s boat. Yet, but I am guessing they will.
I laboured sheepishly for another day on the boat (without power tools or sanding) gluing in the last few bits of corner rounding trim and fastening handles to the dodger frame with which to carry it, then on the morning of the seventh day, I rested. We no actually, only God gets to rest, my labours continued. I moved a few bits of rigging aside and then Omar and I carried the still fragile dodger off the boat and deep into the yard, a ten minute walk away. We set up the dodger on a couple of saw horses. Omar, went back to the boat and I set about getting ready to work under Eddie’s boat.
The first thing I did was drop the dodger off the saw horses. I was adjusting the spacing of the saw horses while crouched under the dodger lifting it with my back. Suddenly, the dodger was gone from my shoulders. With a crash, it rolled off one end, and did a complete summersault and ended up on its back in the gravel up against the keel of Eddie’s boat! I rushed to my precious to see if that was the end of the show right there. With nothing to protect the foam, and only toenail screws holding the bits to the frame, it was pretty vulnerable. And it was a bit of a spring fit with the curves. I was almost too afraid to look, but it seemed to be only slightly damaged and only one corner had broken. I begged a Turk working nearby to help me right her, and lift back on the saw horses and that we did. Repair work began.

Day Eight to Ten:
I began filling and sanding the foam. It took two full days of filling the cracks (and damage divots) with the putty and then sanding each before she was ready for epoxy and glass cloth. I still didn’t have the roof front edge fully formed to my liking, but I decided that can wait another day while I tried out the epoxy and glass. It didn’t go well. For some reason, the glass matt, didn’t ‘release’ in the epoxy resin. Usually the temporary binding that hold the dry glass matt in together, is dissolved in the polyester or epoxy, allowing the matt to take the shape of the object being covered. No dice. When I left it the dodger that night I didn’t know if it’s the Turkish epoxy or the Turkish matt that is at fault. Full Stop!

Day Eleven
Tis morning, and the wind howls in the rigging, and rain lashes the deck. I was up last night at mid night to stroll across the yard with a coil of rope in hand to tie my dodger down, lest it leap from the saw horses again. This morning, I am so bloody tired. My hands are sanded down the bone from 40 grit paper. My back is so stiff I can barely stand straight. My whole body aches for a long hot bath. Thank goodness for the rain. I get a guilt free day off. Well at least for now. Maybe I will try and sort out the epoxy/matt problem latter.

‘Tell me Cress, what has been the experience behind the dodger project?’, you might be asking.

Trading places between foreground and background to the dodger project is the incredible environment in which the marina exists. Clear skies, where the stars shine and moon rises and sets, clean air, keen and pure, clear water deep and blue, and sun mixing with billowy white clouds, today aside, make me well, content. Happy. It is such a relief from the City, any city. Lying in the quiet peace of the marina on a still night, snug in the berth under the open hatch cool under my trusty down sleeping bag, smelling the pine brushed air is precious to me. I almost don’t want to sleep, just lie there and enjoy it.

Then there are the “rules” here in the Marina, and for that matter, the rest of Turkey. It’s hilarious, really, Turkey seems to have more rules per square metre than I have seen anywhere, but the Turkish are the least likely to follow them. Surprise, surprise. There are so many, if you followed them, living would be practically impossible. For westerners all these rules poses a delima. We are taught as children the rules are the framework of the social contract – you get to enjoy the fruits of society, in
exchange for giving up some of your freedom to the rules. This is one side of the coin. On the other side of the coin, rules are routinely abused by the more powerful to force compliance on the less powerful.
The balance between the two sides of the coin is different in different countries, different cultures, and different enterprises. Is it any surprise, therefore, especially in a place like Turkey, where so many have so little power (wealth), rules are given so little regard? For westerners, we must adapt to a ‘everything is negotiable if you don’t get caught’ mind set of the Middle East. This is a challenge for us, for me.

Lastly, the dodger project represents a voyage into the unknown, in a small way. Like all challenges, it demonstrates for me the value of jumping in when the success is uncertain. We need to get off the dock, commit to the challenge, and then allow ourselves to rise and meet the challenges as they appear. What so interests me, is that each problem gets solved one way or another just when it needs to be solved. Almost always. Our discomfort with the uncertainty is our own creation. If we are unconscious, we will allow the fear of failure to slay our opportunity for success. It’s like a glider pilot hunting for the lift of a thermal to sustain flight: He must counter the gliders natural inclination to allow passing thermals to lift a wing tip and steer the glider away from the thermal.  To rise, the glider pilot must steer in the opposite direction for the heart of the thermal. We are more successful as creatures of challenge, than as creatures of comfort. But our natural inclination is away from discomfort, from the opportunity for success.

Lastly, we must put ourselves up in the sky in the first place, seeking thermals. This is the hardest work of all, making ourselves value something enough to be willing to suffer our discomfort, mostly our fear. This is the unseen value of ‘character’. People of character have developed the capacity to see past their unconscious inclination to avoid discomfort. Watching television doesn’t do this. Following the rules doesn’t do this. Following other people doesn’t do this. Only a learned willingness to suffer our discomfort while going after what we really want does it.