The uphill battle to Kumai

Irena: After 4 days and nights of 20+ SE winds - UPWIND all the way, we have finally reached Kumai. It was a struggle made bearable only because of our most amazing crew - Dennis and Rita. It is an understatement to say that they kept us all going - cheerful while being tossed around the galley trying to just pour a cup of coffee, steadfast at the helm through up to 25 kts of apparent wind, and up at all hours of the day and night as we all took our turns on watch. They are the definition of "good sports"! Thank you Dennis and Rita - we will always think of you when we sail upwind - which we hope will not be for quite some time! In fact, we are altering our course for the next leg and will head for Jakarta rather than Bali in order to go downwind. It will just be Cress and I for the next passage, and 400 miles downwind is a heck of a lot more appealing than 400 miles upwind.



However, that is not for a few days yet. We are currently anchored on the southwest corner of Borneo, up the river opposite the small town of Kumai (20,000 pop). A quaint town that relies on tourists who are coming to visit Tanjong Puting National Park to see Orangatans at the conservation/rehabilitation center - which we are about to do in the next couple of days. We are really looking forward to this trip on a river boat (while we leave Conversations in the good hands of a local 'guard'). We did manage to find a wonderful fish and fruit/veg market here where Rita talked us all into buying and trying a Durian (Aromatic - ok smelly - Asian delicacy fruit only Asians could love). I made it 5 years in Singapore without tasting a Durian - until last night. Only have 2 words - NEVER AGAIN! Sorry - but it was really aweful - and all I could taste for the next several hours - something like a cross between an onion and mashed bananas....

Ah well - now I can say I tried it at least - thanks Rita! OK - turning this over to Dennis next who has an account of part of our trip from Pontianak to Kumai. We did manage to make 2 stops along the way. One just to get out of big seas and take a break, and the other for my birthday celebration. It was fantastic. Only Cress, Dennis and Rita could have pulled this off. A star- studded evening, candlelight, roast chicken, roasted veggies, salad and chocolate birthday cake coming after 24 hours of upwind sailing. There were so many stars in the clear and dark night they were lighting up the water - just beautiful. Cress and I saw a shooting star that seemed to trail for 30-45 seconds. Great birthday :) I guess 55 will not be so bad after all. Irena