Saturday, November 26, 2011

Our first taste of South Africa




We have been in South Africa for 2 weeks now, and really loving it! We have done a bit of exploring in between boat jobs and various yacht club BBQs and catching up with all the cruisers. Invariably we all compare notes on how our passage was and how much wind we saw and how many days it took (we took 9 days, very respectable). We were definitely one of the lucky ones as far as the passage from Reunion goes. We made it into Richards Bay harbour before some of the high winds started. On that same passage a few boats were damaged, some even towed into port and one very unfortunate boat hit a container 500 miles offshore and sank (the name of the boat was Wizard, a South African boat with 5 crew on board - all 5 were rescued by a passing freighter). So we count our blessings and thank our captain for getting us here safe and sound.


We are slowly getting ourselves into gear - getting cell phones and internet and arranging moorage in Cape Town. But it will still take us a couple of months to ease into work. Eitan is still with us en route to Cape Town, and we have a new crew (Mark) joining us next week in Durban and Cress's daughter Breanna coming for Christmas. And we still have about 900 miles to sail the rest of the way to Cape Town. The plan is to start that trip next week as a series of 1-3 day passages as we wait for good weather to get to each port. Next stop is Durban only 85 miles down the coast.


We have managed to rent a car for a day here and a day there to get out and see some of the game parks and African terrain. All wonderful - but this is where a few pictures are worth a thousand words!

Irena and Cress

Impala - we saw tons of these

African Elephant
Very elegant Giraffe
Zebras and Giraffe; up high.... down low





Hippo yawn

Lotsa hippa... or is that hippi???





Black Rhino 

Hornbill

African Buffalo


Nyala
Can't recall his exact age.... but over 100

Zulu warrior dance

Tiny Zulu dancers

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Happy Birthday to Anglin!!!

This blog post is dedicated to my grandson Anglin John Macintosh who turned 5 today - November 12th! I can hardly beleive it - 5 years old already.
For Anglin, I have 5 pictures and 5 things that remind me of him.
1. Enthusiastic; quick and bright Anglin loves to do new things. A future sailor I am sure of it!
2. Thoughful; Anglin likes to have some time to himself each day to just chill.

3. Determined; to learn to do things independently. I think his first words were "I can do it myself!"
4. Curious - wants to know how everything works and he learned a lot about how all parts of the boat work - even the head!
5. Imaginative - this is a picture of Angllin drawing in our logbook. It is a very detailed map which shows a path all the way from Orillia, Ontario to Phuket, Thailand where he was visiting us on the boat.
Anglin - We miss you like crazy and want to wish you a very happy, happy birthday filled with lots of fun and presents and cake! Sending hugs and kisses xxoxoxoxoxoxoox.
Love from Gramm and Cress

Safe and sound in South Africa!

Just a quick note to say that we arrived in South Africa at 10:30 this morning. Eitan was the first to shout 'Land ho' as we were approaching the coast. The last 48 hours were very fast sailing conditions and we are pretty exhausted after focusing all our efforts on staying exactly on course and keeping our speed up. We arrived in plenty of time - but we see the weather has already shifted - now overcast and cool and wind changing to an unfavourable direction.

So we made it! Took us 9 days and 5 hours to do the 1500 nautical miles. Not too shabby!! We are now patting ourselved on the back and trading stories with all the other cruisers who have arrived, and cheering on those who are still underway.

Irena and Cress (who is napping as we wait for customs - I don't think he slept more than a couple of hours last night and Eitan, who is sitting at the nearest bar/restaurant online!)

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Q&A from the third grade.

This blog post is dedicated to my sister Barb’s (aka Mrs. Stultz’s) third grade class in Virginia Beach, Virginia. They are learning about the globe, maps and oceans, and have been following our blog to see where in the world we are sailing and traveling. The children in the class have posted some questions for us, which we are responding to here.

Dear class – thanks for sending your questions to us. Right now we are on the island called Reunion. This is a French island so we are practicing speaking French with all the people here and are enjoying all of the French bakeries and coffee! This island has a volcano which we hiked and we saw all of the old lava that had come out of it and the giant crator that was formed after the volcano blew! We will be leaving here soon for our sailing passage to South Africa – but first, here are the answers to your questions.

1.      Savannah wants to know why you sail.
We sail because it is a fun and out of the ordinary way to travel around the world and see different countries. It is also good environmentally since most of the time we use the wind and our sails to get wherever we are going instead of fuel. We love being in nature away from cities and towns where the air is clean and not polluted. And it is a cool way to meet people like other sailors and people who live in the places we visit.



2.      Lajuane wonders what you DO when you travel.
Well, when we are sailing from one place to another, we must watch for storms and other ships. So we take turns being "on watch". When we are not on watch we catch up on our sleep and cook meals and stuff like that. When we are not sailing from place to place, we visit the neat places we are in, sometimes we drive around, go hiking, swimming, kite boarding or scuba diving and then we get the boat ready for sailing again. We also make friends with other sailors and people who live in the places we visit. All of the sailors we meet are also from different countries around the world. Right now the sailors around us are from Norway, Sweden, England, South Africa and the United States.



Can you guess which one of us this is?



3.      Savanna asks where you sleep and what you eat.
We have about 8 beds that we call `berths`on the boat where we can sleep when we are sailing. We have a kitchen on the boat called a ‘galley’, and since we have a fridge and stove, we can cook just about anything we want! When it`s cold and wet we like to have things like stew or soup or chili. Also, sometimes we catch a fish and then we can have fresh fish for dinner! We also learn to cook some of the different foods we find in these countries like curry and laksa (coconut noodle soup with prawns).


4.      Thylia is wondering where you get food.

Well luckily the boat has lots of good cupboards so when we are in port, we can buy groceries just like you at home in the grocery store. We like to go to the local market for fresh fruit, vegetables and meat where the local farmers bring their food to sell. The fruit we get here is awesome – mango, papaya, pineapple and lots of coconuts! Sometimes we can be sailing for up to 4 weeks without seeing land. When we are on a long sailing passage, we will run out of fruit and vegetables, so then we have to have things like canned peas and carrots (yuck!).


5.      Braylen wants to know how long it takes to get across the Indian Ocean.
We sail about 150 nautical miles each day (it`s about the same speed as jogging). So to get all the way from Jakarta, Indonesia to Richards Bay in South Africa it will take us 30 days of sailing. But since we are stopping at many islands along the way, the whole trip will take us 4 months.
It takes about 1 month to get across the Indian Ocean, but we don’t do it all at once since it there are so many great places to visit along the way.


6.      Lila asks if you ever get sea sick on the ship.

YES! We all get sea sick once in a while. It feels awful, but luckily it only happens at the beginning of a sailing passage and then we feel better after about 2 days. We do have some medicine that helps too, but mostly we just have to lie down and sleep until we feel better. But even though we are sea sick we still need to keep sailing – and sometimes that is very hard!
We just have to get our “sea legs”!

But if we take our sea sick medicine we feel better. And it only lasts a couple of days then we feel great again for the rest of the passage.


7.      Mia wonders how long you have been traveling and whether you ever see whales.
We have been traveling and working away from Canada for 6 years so far! And yes we have seen a lot of whales. One time in a place called Tonga we got to swim with humpback whales - it was really great.  But most of the time, we just see their spray and their tails when they jump in the air.

8.      Kayden wants to know if you've seen a flock of whales (I think she means a pod).
Only once, and that was when we were in Tonga and went swimming with them. They were humpback whales. We saw a bull (the dad), a cow (the mum) and a calf (the baby).  

9.      Deshaun wonders what other animals you've seen in your travels.

My goodness, we have seen so many animals in the wild (not in the zoo)! Let`s see, we have seen elephants in Thailand, crocodiles, kangaroos and Koala bears in Australia, flying fish, eels, manta rays, tortoises, grey sharks and reef sharks in the Pacific Ocean and the South China Sea, orangutans in Borneo, monkeys in Asia and whales and dolphins in all of the oceans and all kinds of birds, petrels, tropic birds, albatross, eagles. Last night we even saw oxen in a parade!


10.  He knows you're from Canada and wants to know if you lived in a teepee or a house.
We lived in a house in Vancouver, but we had a camping tent that looked kind of like a teepee!

11.  Kayden asks how many continents you've visited.
Let`s see, on this sailing trip we have visited North America, Australia, Asia and we are about to get to Africa - so that makes 4 continents. That leaves South America, Europe and Antarctica!

12.  Taylah wonders what you will do in Africa.
When we get to Africa we are going to find work to do so that we can stay for a year or so. While we are there we plan to go on a safari, and since we will be in Cape Town we will go hiking at Table Mountain. And of course we will buy a car and drive around to see what the country looks like. Cress wants to rent an airplane so he can see the country from the sky!

 13.  Emma is worried about whether you are afraid or scared that pirates might get you!
Well we are very careful to listen to the `pirate reports`and make sure that we do not go to the places where the pirates are. It is something that we think about, and read about to make sure we don`t put ourselves in danger. Although, we wouldn`t mind seeing Captain Jack Sparrow!!!



14.  Andre wants to know if you like traveling.

Yes we do love travelling and meeting new people and seeing new places. There are so many beautiful places in our world, we feel lucky to be able to see so many cool things and get to know so many different people.

We get to try different cultures too, hearing the languuges, seeing how people dress and eating their food and sharing their festivals and celebrations and also learning how people in other countries believe different things than what we do – like different religions such as Buddism, different beliefs about family – like the eldest daughter in the family is not supposed to get married, since she is to stay home to look after her parents.



















15.  Sutton, Emijah and Kimiyah wonder if you ever miss your family back at home and if you like being without them.


Oh man, we really miss our family and our friends. We keep inviting them to come sailing with us, and some of them have come! Even your teacher Mrs. Stultz - (who is my big sister) - she came to visit us in Singapore! And so did our parents and 2 of our children and 2 of our grandchildren so far. We love having friends and family come to visit us, but we also go back to Canada once a year or so to visit them there. And sometimes, we like being alone too! It`s very peaceful then!!

Mrs. Stultz in Singapore!


16.  Emijah asks how long you will be out to sea.
Well, that is a million dollar question! We may end up living on our boat for a long time. We can even bring the boat back to Vancouver which is also on the Pacific Ocean, and live on it there. That way we will be closer to all of our friends and family. So, I think we will be at sea for a very long time.

17.  Thylia wants to know where you found the dolphins.

It was very early in the morning and we were in a place called Grand Baie, Mauritius - and we were having our coffee in the cockpit when we looked up, we could see them jumping and swimming a little distance away from us. So we got into our small dinghy and went out toward them and we went swimming with them. That was quite amazing! Most of the time, the dolphins find us instead of us finding them! They like playing in the bow waves.


 18.  Riley wonders how many more miles you have to go.
We have 1500 nautical miles to go to get to Richards Bay in South Africa. And another 1,000 miles to get down the coast and around the Cape of Good Hope to Cape Town. Then about 15,000 miles to get all the way back home to Vancouver!




 

Thanks for sending all of these questions! We really enjoyed answering them. Please do let us know if you have any more!


Irena and Cress

Captains of the World


“There is something oddly familiar about this visage”, I thought, “but for the life of me, I cannot think what it is”. From the cockpit of Conversations, I was watching Captain M scooting across the anchorage in his dingy at a very good clip, bound for the town pier.  He was standing in his dinghy, looking squarely forward, his belly poking out, his shoulders back, his chin leading the way. He had the dinghy painter in his right hand, like a leash, and in his left hand, he held tightly to a tubular extension to his outboard motor, arm behind his back. He was nearly as tall as his dinghy was long. He could have been Nelson captaining a frigate.

Captain M is one of about 10 cruising skippers we have been sailing with across the Indian Ocean. Our small armada of cruising boats sail together in an informal way, usually meeting up in each port down the line as we complete the shorter passages between islands. In each port we spend happy evenings over beer and wine, full of wind, comparing notes on the last passage, giving advice on the next passage. And everyone is as free with their help and spare parts as they are with their opinions. It’s an endless conversation and my crew protests over the monotony of such ‘boat talk’. But to me who loves all boats, it’s a brotherhood of ease. And of course, it is of inestimable value in getting our own little craft home safely. Irena and I often jest, “It’s easier to get boat help and spare parts in the furthest reaches of the tropics than it is in downtown Vancouver!”

I have grown particularly fond of Captain M. Like many cruising skippers, he has the gift of being thoroughly who he is, comfortably, playfully, doing the sailing around the world thing with an ease that belies the challenges. He is full of stories of misadventure, opinions and points of view that have been honed to a fine point from years of telling. In his company, I know he will tell me exactly what he thinks no matter how contrary it might be to the ‘right’ thing to say in the moment. And I think he has earned the right, no matter what others might think, from a lifetime of bold experience, beginning with his tour in Viet Nam as a helicopter gunship pilot.  

“Never look a single hander in the eye” (a single hander is a person sailing his own boat around the world on his or her own) he was saying loudly the other day with a twinkle in his eye, “you might never get away!” Hilarious, I thought, when he so carries on himself, but unlike him, I lacked the courage to kid him of such in the moment. So I like to be in the presence of his confidence and I like to bump up against his strength, though not always to my profit. When I complained the other day of having to dance around our oversized wheel in the cockpit, Captain M proclaimed “I bet my wheel is bigger than your wheel!” I rose to the challenge. It was a foolish bet. Disturbed unaccountably from my slumbers the very next morning, I poked my head out of the companionway to see him striding away down the quay. Later he claimed, and I had to submit, that he didn’t even need his tape measure to make his win. “What were you thinking!” he chided. It hurt, especially as I don’t ever pay to drink Johnny Walker Black for myself. And neither does he, he says, the rascal. And, he said with a grand smile as he received my package, “But my wife does!” And so it goes.

Reflections
Captain M has the gift of proclaiming his place in the world, in his own way, without apology. I appreciate him for it. Perhaps in my association with him, his boldness will rub off on me. And I believe, there is something to be learned from each of the cruising skippers who make up this community. They are all, in their own way, people who more than average occupy the space in life they were meant to occupy. They stand apart in their fullness. I am sure every skipper has their moments of doubt and shame, but in a valuable way they have clamoured over a lifetime of experience to stand in a high level of self-assurance. This seems to me to be the essence of ‘Captaincy’ - to proclaim their right to be and to live as they are meant to, to manifest in their fullness, amidst their internal parade of doubt and uncertainty. ‘Captaincy’ is to be in the place we were born to occupy, even though the world may seek relentlessly for us to be elsewhere. In a way, it is their gift of courage and learning to the world – to be who they are – for in that authentic expression, they are for others a champion of their becoming. It’s a charge to be amongst such people.

Reunion - hello and goodbye



Wow, we have been out of touch! Or is that touché? No of course not, but it gives you a sense of the depth of our problem in Reunion - Its very French!
We have had a great time here the last 10 days exploring the island of Reunion, hiking to the top of an active volcano, sightseeing by car around the island, and enjoying the Dipavali holiday fireworks and bar parties. We have been docked in Saint Pierre, surrounded by a great reef break where the surfers hang daily, a fantastic beach for swimming, snorkelling and downtown on our other side.
But despite the paradise of our good fortune, all around the docks in Saint Pierre this morning are signs of boats being readied for departure. Next door Eivand on Empire is test running his engine, sawing and drilling away at some mysterious parts in the cockpit. Down the dock, other skippers and crew are on deck, pulling on lines, looking aloft, testing and checking sails and rigging. Our boat is scrubbed, provisioned, watered and tidied - readied to go. Everyone else seems restless to leave too, a favourable weather window calling, but held up by the French bureaucracy – a four day closing of all government offices means none of us get our exit visas. All of us – and I bet there are 8 of us - remained tied to the dock inside the breakwater, while fair winds beckon outside. “Well, cry me a river!” I hear you say.
This passage to South Africa from Reunion is the big one everyone has been anticipating the whole way across the South Indian Ocean. It’s a 1500 mile passage, as I have said in other blogs, that will take us south around the southern tip of Madagascar, across the Augulas Current to Richards Bay. Some skippers are paying handsomely for the advice of professional ‘route planners’ - meteorologists - for personalized weather forecasts. The rest of us are listening keenly to such prognostications received second hand, while we debate our amateur weather forecasting efforts from internet data such as passageweather.org. Go? Stay? In the end, in the face of indifferent forecasts, we will just leave, for all of us are too restless to wait for perfect conditions. And, the passage is longer than can be forecast. By the time we get to Madagascar, the weather will be what it will be. We might, or might not, get beaten up a little, but all of us have boats and experience sufficient to the task.
Preparing for sea is a welcome focus for me, and I think for other skippers and crew. After the pleasant days, filled with low key repairs and preparations interspersed with sightseeing and hiking, we all welcome a return to doing what we love to do – sailing.