Seville lies miles up the wide and gentle Rio Quadalaquivir.
We navigated the shallow river mouth and enjoyed sailing when we could, and
motoring when the wind died. We took our time, moving up river with the flood, which
ran, surprisingly, all the way to Seville. We anchored early evening, just
before dark, when the flood turned to ebb, and stayed the night in the
delicious peace of the Spanish country side. When we reached Seville, we could
have locked into the eastern river branch and entered the downtown harbour. We opted
instead to anchor in the free river about four miles from the city centre near
a small yacht club. We were glad we did - we enjoyed celebrity status for being
one of the rare cruisers to come to town. It was lovely to have goats on one river
bank and a small town on the other. We did day excursions by bus into the city
centre.
We were interested to learn that at the peak of the Spanish
empire, Seville was the only centre in Spain where the King allowed new world
goods brought in from the off shore colonies to be traded. This preserved the
region and protected the main trading centre from attack by other nations, as
they were otherwise wont to do. It would have been a sight watching the square
rigged Spanish ships, with no engines, working their way patiently up and down
50 miles of river with the tides!
We hung out about a week in the heat before catching the ebb
back out to sea. Very hot in Seville, away from the ocean, we discovered. We
scooped a huge sunken tree when we weighed anchor which slowed us down a tad. As
on the way up river, we anchored about mid way down river to wait for the next
day’s ebb. Again, we had another delicious night in the Spanish country side
quiet, though we were hiding below decks from the hungry hordes of mosquitos.
Next day we ran down to the sea and made our way down the coast to Caciz then
Sancti Petri, where we find ourselves again up a lovely river.
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